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Jembrana the least populated area of Bali was
home of the now extinct Bali tiger. Although the
area has only basic tourist facilities, many attractions
make Jembrana worth visiting. The main population
areas are scattered along the southwestern coastal
road. The district can be reached from Singaraja
in the north and Denpasar in the southeast through
Tabanan. Enjoining a strategic location on the
northwestern coast of Bali, Jembrana district
is the landing point for travelers by sea from
Java Island.
Around the clock ferry services link the ports
of Gilimanuk at the northwest tip of the area
and Ketapang in east Java. Opened in the 1960's
the ferry terminals have been upgrade to cope
with the busy traffic. From Gilimanuk a road led
eastwards to Singaraja through scenic clove and
Vanilla plantations and vineyards. Jembrana's
popultion is multi religious. Both mosque and
Hindu temples can be found here.
The clean and well-formed villages of Belimbingsari
and Palasari boast the biggest Protestant and
Catholic Church is the most beautiful in eastern
Indonesia.
The topography of the district is as varied
as its cultures. The northern half of Jembrana
consist of mountains and forms part of west Bali
National Park. In the south there are 71 kilometers
of beaches of volcanic origins with black sands
but there are also some beautiful white coral
beaches, especially at Madewi beach, and some
of the most beautiful rice terraces on the island.
Mekepung and Perancak
The most exciting event in Jembrana is the traditional
buffalo race. The regency even calls itself "the
land of the Mekepung". Usually held between
August and October, the Mekepung was originally
held as part of the harvest festivities. The carts
and buffaloes were until quite recently used for
transportation and to help the peasant to carry
the yoke to plough in the rice field. The Mekepung
consists of a race between two carts pulled by
a team of water buffaloes. The colorfully decorated
animals race on a two kilometers course. These
days, championship events are organized under
the sponsorship events are organized under the
sponsorship of the local government, whish uses
the race to help promote tourism.
In the village of Perancak there is a small temple
of white stones to commemorate the landing of
Dang Hyang Nirartha. A crocodile farm commemorates
the now extinct Perancak crocodile, tigers, the
Rare Jalak Putih, the Phoenix bird of Paradise,
and other animals.
At high tideon nearby Perancak river small traditional
jukung and sampan boats can be seen quietly sailing
up the river towards Loloan on the estuary, which
is a unique Bali Village inhabited by descendants
of Bugis seafares who settled here at the end
of the 17th century. Loloan is predominantly Muslim
in many ways, having its own dialect and culture.
Besides the Mekepung buffalo race there is a
cow race called Magembeng. The name originates
from the Gembeng, the wooden bell makes a sound
that produces a special kind of music. The Megembeng
competition is not so much about speed as about
the elegance and beauty of the cows.
West Bali National Park
Spreading over more than 76.000 hectares, West
Bali National Park is situated in two districts,
Jembrana and Buleleng. The entrance on the Jembrana
side of the park is at Melaya on the Denpasar
- Gilimanuk road. Visit this place if you're looking
for pristine tropical nature. The park is the
last natural habitat of the endangered Jalak Putih
fewer than fifty are believed to remain in the
wild, where they are threatened by poaching. The
park is also home to Banteng, the wild red bull,
and the deer like menjangan. The National Park
contains a broad range of natural environments,
from mangrove coastal forests to Savannah and
rainforest shelters.
To enter the National Park one must first go
to the park office in Cekik. Accommodation is
available in basic huts but you must bring your
own bedding and utensils. Experienced guides in
the office offer excursion for trekking, diving
and snorkeling (see"Buleleng" article).
Diving and snorkeling on the Jembrana side of
the National Park are not recommended for beginners.
Gilimanuk Bay
Gilimanuk's beaches are trully pristine and there
is a wide range of them: coral beaches, white
and black sand beaches and mangrove forest. The
beauties of the underwater coral await anyone
willing to dive in and go snorkeling. There are
two small islands in the bay, which are barely,
more than sandbars - Pulau Kalong (Bat Island)
and Pulau Burung (Birds Island). There is also
a museum containing pre-Hindu archaeology. The
villages around Gilimanuk contain a mioxture of
Balinese, Javanese, Madurese and Bugis architecture
unique to Bali. No less beautiful are the various
boats belonging to these ethnic groups.
Further south at Candi Kusuma there are two temples
dedicated to the legendary figure of Dang Hyang
Nirartha - Indra Kusuma temple and Taman Sumur
Bulus. Locals tell how in 1897 two Dutch officers
were attracted to the place when they saw a light
coming from the earth. It turned out to be a Kris
(a supernatural dagger). Candi Kusuma beach is
known for its beautiful black sand and the gentle
hills permeating the beach.
Inland from Melaya are the parallel Christian
communities of Palasari (catholic) and Blimbingsari
(Protestant), built at the beginning of the century
in a settlement area for Balinese who had converted
to Christianity. Hills and paddy fields surround
the villages. Their uniqueness, however, lies
in the cultural cocktail present in the churches,
which mix both Gothic and Balinese architectural
style.
Delodbrawah Beach is black sand beach, which
used to be a swamp (Brawah), believed to be a
favorite crocodile haunt. Believe it or not, the
sand from the beach is said to cure rheumatism.
To the north of the beach is Mendoyo in Negara.
One of the racing grounds for the Mekepung is
found here, it can even be used in the rainy season.
Rambutsiwi temple is on a cliff top overlooking
a breathtaking panorama of rice fields on one
side and the black sandy beach on the other. Stairs
allow people to get safely down onto the beach.
Two caves overlook the sea, each with a view of
the fishermen's boats and seabirds hovering above.
This spot is a favorite hangout for painters.
Dang Hyang Nirartha built the temple itself. According
to the legend, he made a gift of his hair to the
temple. Hence the name Rambut Siwi, which literally
means 'Hair Worship'!
Madewi beach is a small resort in the southeast
of Jembrana (about midway between Gilimanuk and
Denpasar), just off the main road at Airsatang.
Waves from three to seven meters in height make
for perfect surfing. Small black pebbles are scattered
over the black sandy beach providing a magnificent
scene at sunset.
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