Gianyar, the second most populated region of Bali, is the cultural heart of the island. The highland town of Ubud, in particular, has acquired a reputation as a center of art after several foreign artists settled there in the 1920's 1930's and 1950's. Geographically, the region is very distinct. Clove, coffee and vanilla grow in the highlands and rice is the most common crop on the lowlands. The old harbors of Ketewel and Kramas are fisherman's villages. When you travel from Denpasar to Ubud the first village you reach is Batubulan, a small village famous for its river stone carvings. These works are displayed all along the main road. The popular door-guardian statues of volcanic tuff, once exclusively used in temples and palaces are now exported overseas. Another specialty of Batubulan is the barong dance performed daily in the morning.

The dance symbolize the never ending battle between good (represented by Barong) and evil (represented by Rangda). You must not Miss Pura Puseh Batubulan, a beautiful temple. Just after Batubulan, Celuk and nearby Singapadu are the centers for Balinese goldsmiths and silversmiths. More than 40 jewelry is exported worldwide. Singapadu is also well known for Topeng and Barong mask making.

After Celuk the main road heads to Sukawati, famous for its art market (Pasar Seni) and dalangs (puppeteers). The two-floor market sells everything from statues to dance costumes, all at reasonable prices. In the evening, a night market takes over and it provides a good selection of Indonesian food. Sukawati village is also a center for the manufacture of bamboo wind chimes. The puppeteers of Sukawati performed at ceremonial occasions and their skills passed down from one generation to another.

Further along the road towards Ubud is the village of Mas. Famous for woodcarving, Mas offers a myriad of wooden items. The main road of the town is lined with dozens of workshops. Mas is also of historical significance to Bali's history as it was here that the great priest Nirartha had his hermitage in the Pura Taman Pule.

After Mas you enter the area of Ubud, often regarded as the cultural heart of Bali. "Ubud" is derived from the world "Ubad" which means medicine, as the town supplied medicinal herbs in ancient times. A former principality, Ubud has several palaces and Brahmin mansions, as well as beautiful houses built in the Gianyar architectural style. The modern Balinese art movement began here, when artists first began to abandon purely religious and court scenes for scenes of everyday life. Ubud is home to many respected local and western artists.

The cultural image of Ubud is paramount to the people as it is home to the best art museums in the country. The Puri Lukisan, a Museum of fine arts established in the 1950's, displays art from the 1930's and 1950's, as well as fine examples of modern Balinese art.

The Neka museum has a diverse and interesting collection of mainly modern art. It also includes an excellent and varied display of work by western artists who have resided in Ubud through the years. ARMA (Agung Rai Museum & Art) at Jl. Pengosekan should not be missed as it contains paintings by established artists.

Ubud is an ideal place to see Balinese dance. Legong, Ramayana, Baris, Kecak and the fire dance are performed nightly in or around this area.

Ubud gives you opportunity to see the real Bali. It is place for leisurely strolls through rice terraces, lush forests, breathtaking gorges and deserted swimming hotels, all within walking distance from the center of the village. If you want to visit the monkey forest just walk along monkey forest road from Ubud and down into a thick forest where you will find a flock of monkeys waiting for passing tourists. A world of warning: the monkeys are happy but just a little naughty, so hold on to your cameras.

Ubud market has kept much of its traditional charm, with squatting Balinese sellers haggling loudly among spices and vegetables. The market also sells handicraft, many made in the neighboring villages of Pengosekan, Tegalalang, Payangan and Peliatan.

Gianyar also has some of the most important archeological sites. The majorities are located in the Pejeng area, four kilometers east from Ubud. It is home to an archeological museum and one of South East Asia's oldest artifacts, a huge bronze kettledrum known as the "Moon of Pejeng" a relic from the Bronze Age originating from Dongson, Vietnam. The village also has two ancient temples, the Pura Pusering Jagat and Pura Kebo Iwa Edan.

The Road to Pejeng and Gianyar is the site of the Goa Gajah, the "elephant cave" that is carved into the rock face and reached by a flight of steps. It probably dates back to the 9/12th centuries and shows elements of both Hindu and Buddhist religions. You can enter the cave through the huge mouth of figure of a Demon. In front of the cave are two bathing pools with spring water gushing from spouts held by female figures.

A kilometer from Goa Gajah is Yeh Pulu. After a short walk through rice terraces, you will arrive at an ancient rock carving depicts various scenes of everyday life and the figures of elephant-headed Ganesha indicate a close relationship between the two sites.

Still within the district of Gianyar in the central mountains across from Trunyan is the small settlement of the presidential palace of Tampak Siring, with its popular natural springs and beautiful modern architecture. The springs bubble outs and are captured in bathing pools. The late president Soekarno used to stay here.