An umbrella - like shape covering almost all of Bali's northern coast, the district of Buleleng is walled out by the sea of Bali on the north, Karangasem on the east and the districts of Jembrana, Tabanan and small areas of Badung and Bangli on the west and south. This historical kabupaten is isolated from the rest of Bali and has developed distinc social and cultural features and continues to attract increasing numbers of tourists each year with its breathtaking natural scenery and unique history. In 1849 Buleleng district became the first region to be colonized by the Dutch who went on to conquer the rest of the island. The area is still full of buildings reflecting the reminiscence of Dutch architecture. The influence of the performing arts of Buleleng can be seen in the southern parts of Bali, which proves that it takes the lead in the cultural realm.

Once Bali's major port, Buleleng traded with Indian merchants some 2000 years back as evidenced by the discovery of ancient beads in Pacung, 40 km east of Singaraja. This finding, in fact, was the first sign of Indian trade with the Indonesian archipelago. Small stupa effigies recently unearthed in Lovina also point to a presence of Buddhist monks in the 6th century, who later traveled south, where their culture blossomed some 200 years later. These discoveries bear whiteness to the role of the early sea routes in the history of Buleleng.

In the central north part of Buleleng lies the city of Singaraja (100.000 inhabitants), which was the capital of Bali during Dutch times. Today it is a mix of Moslem kampung, Chinese shops, tree-lined avenues of colonial houses and neo-Balinese government offices. A Chinese temple (Kelenteng) stands near the old harbor, not far from kajanan mosque, whose mirhab pulpit has an interesting combination of Moslem and Balinese decorative motifs. The Balinese elements of the city appear pushed to the periphery of the city while traditional traders - the Bugis and the Chinese - Occupy its center. Visit the Gedung Kirtya library has thousands of lontar manuscripts in the Javanese and Balinese scripts and you can also buy prasi paintings, completed in the ancient fashion on lontar Palm leaves.

Some six miles south of Singaraja on the way to Denpasar lies the Gitgit waterfall, Bali's highest waterfall, where the inviting cool waters of the river below are worth a dip into. Tourists looking for a quit beach resort can head 6 miles west from Singaraja along the coastal road to Lovina, a long stretch of beach now full with hotels and Bungalows. The black sand beach is safe and a perfect place for swimming and snorkeling. Lovina also offers dolphin watching at sunrise.

Another six miles west from Lovina the coastal road passes through the small towns of Banjar and Seririt. Banjar is home to the only Buddhist monastery on Bali, built in the early 1970's by Addhamma Kovida Vicitta Bhanaka Girirakkhitto Mahatera, the chief monk at the monastery, but the monastery was almost completely destroyed during the 1976 earthquake. The monastery, a blend of Balinese and mainland Southeast Asian architecture, offers hot springs visited by both local people and foreign tourists. Up the road, driving from the dry coastal area to increasingly lush landscapes, you will arrive at the small village of Pedawa, with unique shrines made from bamboo.

From Seririt a road branches inland and you come across the most beautiful rice terraces on the island at Busung Biu and Pupuan. At Mayong a mountain road will take you back to the Bedugul hill area via Munduk and to Tamblingan and Buyan lakes, located in the midst, of a rainforest. Munduk is an eco-tourism hill resort with no less than six waterfalls as well as treks to the pristine Tamblingan Lake and nearby moutain, rainforest and plantation areas. Visitors can stay at Bukit Jegeg cottages, a first class boutique hotel set amidst lush vegetation.

The coastal strip past Seririt narrows westwards, with the main road winding past Celukan Bawang harbor and Gondol beach (a good place for swimming and snorkeling) before eventually arriving at Bali's western tip. After passing a huge rock-face almost to the sea and the nearby Pulaki temple, you will reach the newly-developed Pemuteran beach resort, with fair accommodation and black sand, though it is a little far from Bali's cultural centers.

Pemuteran is an ideal place to plan excursions to west Bali National Park (Taman nasional Bali Barat), comprising the nature reserve of Menjangan Island and the uplands in the west. Menjangan Island has the most beautiful coral reefs in Bali. Along with the nearby Labuan Lalang, this is a wonderful place for diving and snorkeling. Basic accommodation is available at Labuan Lalang, but you are forbidden to spend the night on this unique Menjangan Island.

Taman Sari Bali Cottages, near Pemuteran village and at the foot of the Pulaki Mountain, should be the first choice of accommodation for visitors. Designed to be a place for spiritual uplifting, the resort is in total harmony with its natural surroundings. Visits to temples, jungle trekking, snorkeling and diving excursion can be arranged for you.

To organize treks to the inland section of the park, you need to go southeast to Cekik, near Gilimanuk, where the West Bali National Park office is situated.

In eastern Buleleng you will find something completely different. Easiest of Singaraja are the scenic Sawan and Sudaji rice plains, producing Bali's best rice. The area around here has a unique baroque temple architecture best known for statues dating from colonial times. In Sangsit, where boats still shuttle to the Kangean Island to the north, you must not miss the Beji temple. Its gates and shrines are finely carved with figures of servents, Garudas, demon heads and floral decorations. The inland town of Sawan is traditional center for dance and music. It has simple accommodation and river views rivaling those in southern Bali. One of the few remaining gamelan makers on Bali has its workshop there.

From Sawan a narrow road heads south towards Bedugul through coffee and clove plantations and mountain landscapes. When you are returning to the coastal road, stop at the Pura Meduwe Karang temple in Kubutambahan on the northern coast. The carvers here, besides making sculptures of classical heroes, have also integrated the Dutch presence in their art. The most famous shows a Dutchman riding a bicycle with wheels made of flowers. This is said to represent Nieuwenkampf, a Dutch artist who first explored Bali at the beginning of the century. He traveled around the island by bike, stopping to make sketches of the temples and religious events he witnessed.

Further east, the coastal villages of Julah and Pujung, and the nearby mountain village of Sembiran, are three ancient Bali Aga villages with their own versions of the Balinese language. The road that climbs to Sembiran offers a fantastic view over the palm trees of the coastal plain.

At the eastern end of Buleleng regency is the village of Tejakula, which has preserved an original dance tradition, with Baris Gede (warrior dances) and the famous wayang wong, which is perfomed during the Galungan festival. The road then heads eastwards into Karangasem across a landscape savaged by the 1963 eruption of Mount Agung.