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The district of Bangli is colored with its spread
of volcanic highlands with bubbling Hot Springs
and lush rice fields. The volcanic mountains slope
down to the sea near Tejakula in Buleleng and
Tianyar while the rice growing areas overlook
Klungkung and Gianyar. A great number of small
villages are scattered this town through Gianyar,
via either Tampaksiring or the main road branching
east from Gianyar through rice fields, redbrick
entrances along village streets and pule and giant
Banyan trees towering above you. As the highland
area, Bangli is the source of many Bali's rivers.
Founded in 1204 AD, Bangli town is the sleepy
administrative center, with the usual Brahmin
palaces and mansions, which come alive during
festival days.
The Puri or palaces of the royal families attract
tourists for their magnificently beautiful architecture.
The most prominent among the palaces is the Puri
Denpasar, the palace of the last king of Bangli
who died three decades ago, and a pavilion of
the puri has been remodeled into a small hotel.
Beside the palace, Pura Kehen, the most beautiful
temple in the whole of Bali is considered as the
landmark of Bangli. As the state temple of the
old Bangli Kingdom, Pura Kehen occupies the site
of an earlier temple, which dates back to the
9th century. There are eight terraces built into
the forested slope of a hill. The first five terraces
are the outer courtyards; the sixth, the lower
middle court; the seventh, the upper middle court,
and the eighth, the inner Jeroan. A flight of
38 stairs lead to the meru-shaped gate between
rows of statue of characters from the shadow play
story. Overlooking the gate is the threatening
heald of Kala, guardian of the underworld. There
is a splendid shrine with eleven roofs dedicated
to the God of fire, the resident temple god.
Panglipuran, two kilometers from Pura Kehen,
in a small village restored by the local government
to represent a 'typical' Balinese village. From
Bangli eastwards it is a beautiful drive towards
Karangasem and the Besakih 'mother temple' via
a seemingly unending succession of hills, valleys
and rice terraces. When you take the main road
northwards to Kintamani and the volcanic scenery
of Batur, the most spectacular panorama on the
island awaits you.
Bangli's mountainous region center around the
spectacular volcanic crater (or caldera) of Mount
Batur, which last erupted in 1994. Mount Batur
itself is actually just a small volcano, but its
setting is in the heart of a huge crater 14km
in diameter. Close to the volcano is the largest
crescent-shaped Batur lake, all surrounded by
the high walls of the crater rim. The important
Pura Ulun Danu Batur pays homage to the life giving
quality of the lake, which is considered a sacred
water catchment.
As the road elevates steadily from Bangli or
Tampaksiring, nothing in the surrounding Grey
landscape of bushes and garden plots suggests
the presence of a volcano. But over one smaller
ridges a dizzying view awaits the eyes, encompassing
the crater and beyond. From Penelokan, the main
road runs right round the rim towards Kintamani,
the panorama shifting as you circle around the
crater.
The sheer size of the crater conjures up images
of the massive eruption of the original Mount
Batur taking place tens of thousand years ago.
The volcano is still active today's as Balinese
all over the island who still remember the great
eruption of 1917 will testify. It claimed thousands
of lives and destroyed hundred of temples. Old
people might tell you this was "the year
when the world shook". Local population to
be relocated, along with several of their temples
is including one of the main Bali temples, Pura
Ulun Danu. Initially inside the huge crater, this
temple has been relocated to the top of the ridge
overlooking it. Here it now offers an impressive
view of Mount Batur.
For a complete panoramic view, you can drive
half the circumference of the crater along its
upper rim. The highest point is Bukit Penulisan,
one of the most ancient of Bali's temples that
contains the remains of carvings from the earliest
Buddhist period. From here the road continues
sloping down towards Kubutambahan and Singaraja.
One very interesting excursion in Batur is the
climb down the inside of the crater from Penelokan
to Kedisan. You can then drive around the smaller
Mount Batur, through Songan, and to Toya Bungkah,
across the lake on a boat to a Bali Aga village
called Trunyan. This place is notorious for its
mortuary traditions, instead of cremating the
dead, as a Balinese do throughout most of the
island, the Trunyan communities leave the bodies
to decompose naturally in a special cemetery.
There are also Hot Springs and lodgings in Toya
Bungkah. From Songan there is a beautiful trek
to Tianyar to the north coast of the island. The
adventure traveler may even wish to climb Mount
Batur itself.
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